Saturday, July 31, 2004

thai food & chilis

Last night Big Jim and I finally got around to trying the Thai restaurant that opened months ago in nearby Archez. And I am happy to report, we will be going back. Archez sits in the valley below Canillas, and because it lacks the Med views of the villages perches above, it has managed to remain relatively free of expats. Quick sidebar: Big Jim just sat down to eat his breakfast, and guess what he's having? A BAGEL! An English grocery that just opened on the coast is selling bagels, and our neighbor U., knowing how I lament over the absence of bagels in Spain, brought us a 4-pack yesterday. I haven't tried them yet because I'm waiting until after we go shopping later today so that I can have mine with cream cheese and smoked salmon. Big Jim's assessment: "not perfect, but very good." I'll take that. When my parents visited this past March, they brought us a half dozen or so. One morning during their stay, I asked my mother what she wanted for breakfast. She replied, "I think I'd like a bagel." My stomach sunk. I then I asked my father what he wanted, and he also answered, "Bagel sounds good." I did the math; that would leave Big Jim and I with 4 bagels to fight over. My heart sunk. Suddenly I found my eyes welling up with tears. My mother asked what was wrong; I had to explain that her selfish daughter had waited in great anticipation for 7 months for a bagel and didn't want to share. I felt about 5 years old. My parents relinquished their claims on the bagels, as they can have proper bagels whenever they wish back home, but I quickly froze them just in case they changed their minds. :-) [We have since returned from our shopping trip, and I had one of the bagels for lunch. Very, very good, and I shared some of the salmon with C.K.] Archez is an incredibly precious village. One of our guests described it as unreal feeling, as if she was on a movie set. The centerpiece of Archez is a 13th century Moorish tower, and most of the village must be seen on foot. The streets are particularly narrow; even the main street leading into the village is only wide enough for one car to pass. The Thai restaurant is situated near the bottom of Archez, and one needs to turn onto a dirt path through a farmer's field to access the parking lot. We ate on the patio underneath a canopy of vines, the latticework sagging slightly from the weight of the enormous, ripening bunches of grapes. The creek that runs from Maroma down through the valley provided the ultrarelaxing sounds of babbling water. One could not ask for a more idyllic setting. I had Thai dumplings and Big Jim had a hot soup (sorry, can't remember the name) to start. The dumplings were amazing, and Big Jim raved similarly about his soup. My chicken panang entree was excellent, although Big Jim was slightly disappointed his pork in spicy red curry wasn't hotter (as in heat from the chili). My only letdown of the meal was the noodles we ordered as a side. They were way too salty and nothing to write home about. Big Jim's are far better. We did have a nice chat with the owners, and they seemed genuinely excited that we could say "We liked the food" and "Thank you" in Thai (which we have to thank G.'s Thai girlfriend for teaching us during their visit in May). Big Jim and the chef discussed the various chili peppers they raise. Big Jim grows many varieties of chilis on our roof terrace, some local and some from seeds from the US. Everyone who visits us is required to take a tour of the B.J.'s pepper garden. I admit I tease him about this, but I have benefited greatly from his efforts. He strings them into ristras, which decoratively hang drying in our kitchen until it is time to pop one or two into a pot of chili or curry. Big Jim also uses them to make his own tabasco sauces and chili pastes and mashes, which happily end up my belly when he cooks up his fantastic Thai chicken or szechuan stirfry. Therefore, I strongly encourage this hobby of his. My only question is, and if somebody knows the answer please post a comment, why do English people spell chili with two ll's (ie, chilli)? It just seems all wrong to me. hasta luego, mylifeinspain

Friday, July 30, 2004

tgif/tortilla

I'm glad it's Friday; it's been a strange week, recovering from the feria and T.'s visit. We like to have visitors, but we're always a little depressed, including the pups, for a few days after they leave until we regain the normal rhythm of our usual routine. I've had a good work week, not too crazy. I am a little worried that one of my contacts was fired yesterday; my e-mails to him have been returned from the company's server. It could be they're having e-mail trouble, but I just have this feeling. The past few projects I've worked on for him have been completely disorganized, and I've had to redo a fair amount of editing because he was unclear on instructions from his inhouse editors.  Hmm....I suppose if the e-mails continue to be returned today, I'll e-mail his supervisor to find out what the problem is. Tortilla, one of my favorite Spanish dishes. With the proliferation of cooking programs, magazines, cookbooks, etc., I am amazed when I still see tourists here order a tortilla and then be surprised when they are served a superthick omelette rather than something resembling a taco or burrito. Tortillas are not difficult to make, but they do require a bit of patience. The supermarkets here now sell vacuum-sealed tortillas that you just pop out and brown in a pan. Personally I find this a sacrilege, but our friend U. swears they are very good. Here's what you need to make a proper tortilla:
  • 4 large potatoes, diced
  • 1 chopped onion
  • 1 chopped red pepper (not a traditional ingredient, but I love the added flavor and color)
  • Olive oil
  • Salt&pepper
  • 8 eggs

Slow fry the potatoes, onion, and pepper in about 1/4 cup olive oil for about 20 minutes in a deep frying pan. Scramble and salt&pepper the eggs in a bowl, and add to the pan when the potatoes, etc. have softened. Keep the heat medium-low, continually scraping around the sides of the pan with a flat, wooden spatula. You want to create a round omelette, about 3/4 to 1 inch thick. As the egg begins to cook, press against the sides of the omelette using the spatula, coaxing it into a (close to)perfect circle in the middle of the pan. When the egg is firm (ie, no egg runs when you press the side with the spatula), it's time for the tricky part---the flip. Place a plate larger than the pan on top (make sure you are wearing heat-protective gloves or oven mitts). With one hand holding the plate tightly to the pan and the other hand on the bottom of the pan, quickly flip the pan over, so the omelette falls onto the plate. Slide the tortilla back into the pan for 2 or 3 minutes, to brown the other side.  The tortilla can be eaten warm immediately or saved for later and served at room temperature. Add a salad, and you have a perfect simple dinner or brunch.

Before I go for the day, I also would like to address some of the feedback I've received about mylifeinspain. I created the blog to share my experiences with my friends and family and strangers alike. Because my correspondence with people back in the US had become sporatic owing to my hectic work schedule, I also wanted to provide a way for my friends and family to know what Big Jim and I were up to on a more regular basis. I don't pretend to be an anthropologist, sociologist, or an expert on anything, nor am I attempting to make profound statements regarding the Spanish culture. My window on Spain, a large and incredibly diverse country, is a tiny one. One of the reasons Big Jim and I chose to settle here was the natural beauty of the setting and the simplicity of the lifestyle. In our former lives we didn't have, or perhaps take, the time to watch ant trails or the olives bud and grow. Because we do now doesn't mean we also are not aware of the enormous problems in many places in the world; if anything we are more cognizant of global perspectives, and they occupy many of our daily conversations with each other and with our friends. That I choose not to discuss them here does not mean that I am now wandering through life in a jasmine-infused haze. However, if one is looking for well-researched, hardhitting reports on Spanish politics and society, mylifeinspain is not the place to find them.

Okay, got that off my chest. :-) I'm now off to take the pups to the goat track and check on the progress of the olives.

hasta manana,

mylifeinspain

 

Thursday, July 29, 2004

hodgepodge

Woke up this morning to a cat fight. Even at age 16, C.K. can still screech out an impressive guttural howl. I jumped up and then checked to see if she was in the house; her bed and favorite sleeping chair in the lounge were empty. I looked outside to see if she had escaped again through the kitchen window. No C.K. The roof, I thought. As I approached the open door leading to the terrace, I saw a flash of peachy orange from my right eye, Jy.'s acrobatic tabby, scurry across the terra cotta tiles, C.K. in pursuit. C.K. ran to the edge and peered over the side; the other cat had jumped down onto the Herb Thief's porch and gotten away. For half a second C.K. looked as though she would follow, but she then turned to me with an "I just can't be asked" expression and assumed her well-practiced diva pose. I love my cat. My eye is healing pretty quickly. It has been a challenge coordinating clothes and accessories with a black eye. :-) Actually, it's only purply red on my eyelid now; the area surrounding my eye has turned that oh so attractive greenish yellow that all bruises eventually fade into. Big Jim makes an icepack every night for me before I go to bed, which is very kind. The lump above my eye has gone down, although it is still painful to touch and my ability to raise my eyebrows and roll my eyes when Big Jim tells a bad joke is temporarily impeded. Remember, kids, leave fireworks to the professionals. :-) I saw a tee shirt on the Internet last week that I might buy for Big Jim in an attempt to cheer him up. It was based on the slogan popular when I was a child---"My parents went to the Bahamas and all I got was this lousy tee shirt," except this one read, "My IT job went to India and all I got was this lousy tee shirt." I found it very funny, and I thought it might help Big Jim get through August, which we are expecting to be a quiet month job call-wise because most of Europe shuts down for vacation. I received a surprise phone call from my brother Tuesday evening. It was really nice to chat with him. We hadn't spoken for a long time; he's a chef living on Cape Cod, Massachusetts, and with his crazy schedule and the time difference, it's difficult to find us both at home and awake at the same time. We talked for almost two hours, catching up, etc., etc. Eventually the subject of politics came up.... I have registered with a party, although it would be my preference to be an Independent. However, because of Pennsylvania's primary election rules, I have chosen a party because I am unwilling to give up 50% of my voting privilege. In the past I have voted for Democrat, Republican, Green, and Consumer Party candidates; when none of the people up for vote have impressed me, I have written in my preferred choice. I believe it's most important to research candidates---for incumbents, check their voting records! So many people just vote their party line without a clue as to what the candidate truly represents. In this day in age, when Republicans are disguised as Democrats and vice versa, it is critical that we do our homework and vote in our and our family's best interests, irrespective of party affiliations.  There was an editorial written by Ann Coulter, a conservative pundit, pulled from USA Today earlier this week. I recommend people go to her web site (www.anncoulter.org) and read the piece in its entirety from the archives (July 26, "Put the Speakers in a Cage"). As a believer in free press, I am disappointed that USA Today rejected the article. Given its divisive nature, however, I can understand their motivation. She is reporting from the Democratic convention in Boston, and her lead line was: "Here at the Spawn of Satan convention in Boston...". She then goes on to describe women attending the convention as "...corn-fed, no make-up, natural fiber, no-bra needing, sandal-wearing, hirsute, somewhat fragrant hippie chick pie wagons they call "women" at the Democratic National Convention." This crappy, unoriginal namecalling has gone on for years, and it makes me weary. She then takes a shot at the NEA: "I love bureaucrats at the National Endowment of the Arts funding crucifixes submerged in urine so much -- I think they should go home." This line struck me as strange because she no doubt is referring to Andre Serrano's "Piss Christ" series. I had the opportunity to meet Mr. Serrano at the height of the scandal when he came to speak at my university. I am now 36 years old; do the math. This controversy occurred in 1989, during Bush 41's presidency. For as bright as Ms. Coulter purports to be, I'm surprised she couldn't cite a more timely example. Perhaps USA Today didn't run the article because it was just poor journalism.... No more politics for awhile, I promise. :-) Tomorrow, my tortilla recipe.   hasta luego, mylifeinspain

Wednesday, July 28, 2004

can't sleep/where are all the 25- to 40-year-olds?

I'm awake even earlier than usual today. Those who know Big Jim personally are well aware of his love of talk. There are few people who can keep up with his conversations for any time. When our friend J. first saw that Big Jim and I share an office, he was amazed that we could do so. I told J. that we had to iron out some ground rules at the beginning and that I used to stick a post-it on my laptop that said "Do not disturb" when I really, really couldn't be interrupted. Now I usually wear headphones, sometimes with nothing playing, simply to deter chatting when I am in the middle of a large project. I often joke that there are not enough hours in the day for Big Jim to say everything he needs to; therefore, he talks in his sleep. Tonight has been one of those nights. He may have been having a nightmare, I'm not sure. But it lasted at least an hour, and he was extremely restless, sitting up in a start, rolling, tossing, etc. And did I mention he was speaking in German? So I thought it best to wake him, which is always a risky proposition. He was mildly annoyed but glad I had; he has no recollection of what the dream was about. He is now dozing peacefully, but I'm wide awake.  When I first met Big Jim, he talked in his sleep almost nightly. He was working very hard, involved in large projects, and had difficulty shutting "off" at night. So he would babble about databases and his client in Brussels, sometimes switching from French to English and then to Dutch. Since we've been living in Spain, though, his sleep talking has decreased dramatically, which is good for me because my sleep is not disturbed. He now usually only talks in his sleep when he is bothered about something. I think that although Big Jim was very happy to see G. and T., their recent visits have been hard for him as well. He met both of them about eight years ago on a project he was overseeing. They were bright young programmers, and he has helped to mentor them in their careers. To his credit, they are successful, albeit a tad arrogant, contractors. Big Jim sees a lot of his former self in them, and I believe this makes him nostalgic for his own glory days. T. had some good suggestions for different approaches on Big Jim's CV; B.J. being the "wisened geezer" has difficulty taking advice from his young charges. But I'm working on him. Money is no longer the main issue fueling our desire for Big Jim to find a job; it's far more about him feeling useful and challenging his mind. We also feel as though we've been in a holding pattern for more than two years, and it's not always easy watching the world pass you by while you're just managing to tread water. On another topic, T. made an astute observation during his visit. As we returned Friday night from touring the feria grounds, he asked, "Where are all the 25-  to 40-year-olds in the village?" His question has a simple answer (There are none.) that speaks to a much larger problem affecting many of the mountain villages in the area (the migration of young people). I do exaggerate: there are some residents in the 25-40 age bracket, but not many. Like in many small towns in the US, teens from the village are leaving in droves to attend university or find work in the tourist areas on the coast or in the urban centers, where the wages are much higher and opportunities of all kinds abound. I understand their choices completely; similar wanderlust is what took me to Philadelphia 14 years ago. The exodus of young people from the villages has put many in an interesting predicament, one that is beginning to depend on immigration for their repopulation and sustenance. Some of the even more remote areas are in danger of literally dying out, with local populations over age 65 approaching 60, 70, 80%. During Semana Santa, the wine festival, and the Christmas season, the sons and daughters who have opted for a life elsewhere return home to visit their families. It's not difficult to spot them: the stylish haircuts and clothes, the clean and expensive cars, the air of achievement, the itchiness to return to the lives they've established outside of the village. This phenomenon is not new in many other parts of the world. It's what took me to Philadelphia, my sister to Maryland, and my brother to Massachusetts from the county in Pennsylvania where my mother's family has lived for more than 250 years. My friends from high school now live in Arizona, New York City, San Diego, Washington DC, San Francisco, Colorado. Big Jim and I often wonder what the village will be like in 10, 15 years. Will artists continue to flock here and a community similar to say Taos, New Mexico emerge? Will many of the young Spanish who've left become fed up with the stresses unique to urban life and return with a new-found appreciation of their village? Will the recently arrived expats stay? It's a tough call, and many scenarios are possible. I suppose the cliche "only time will tell" applies. hasta manana, mylifeinspain

Tuesday, July 27, 2004

gracias

Yesterday mylifeinspain celebrated its 1-month anniversary. Thank you to everyone who has stopped by and had a read. Also, thanks to those who have left comments and signed the guest book (if you haven't, please do). To the reader in Girona, I purchased the first fly zapper from a web site called Red Envelope, which is based in the US and I don't believe ships internationally. However, the home shop Casa does carry them in Spain, and I'm sure there must be others selling them on the Internet who would ship here. Additionally, if you have any specific questions about expat life or Spain in general, please feel free to ask via the Comments, and I will respond to the query in a future listing. Thanks, and keep reading! hasta pronto, mylifeinspain

Sunday, July 25, 2004

a bit weary: feria recap

I started this entry Sunday morning but didn't have the energy to finish. The feria was great fun, but I must admit it is nice to get back to a sense of normalcy. The dogs managed to survive without having a nervous breakdown, although just barely. Surprisingly, Mr. Beebs had a tougher time than Precious Boo. P.B. spent the majority of the weekend hiding under the bed from the rockets; M.B. needed constant comfort and reassurance. Neither touched their food, except for when we slipped them a piece of cheese or the like. T. proved to be even more of a feria amateur than Big Jim and me, opting to stay in Saturday night  and watch many episodes of "Freaks & Geeks". Frankfurt has had a particularly cool summer; therefore, I think the strong sun and heat affected T. much more than us. He did rally, though, and had a great time with us at the beach Sunday. Here's my highlight list from the weekend. Mind you I am writing this through one half-swollen eye; I'll explain at the end. :-)
  • Saturday afternoon at Bar Loro with B.J., T., and M.A., sipping gazpacho and tinto de verano, anything to keep cool.
  • The foam dance: the entire main plaza was filled with more than a meter of soap suds (I'm 165 cm, and it came to my armpits). B.J. and T. passed on this one, but I had great fun, and again, anything to keep cool. After I danced to a couple songs, I climbed the steps out of the square, my flipflops squishing, and I felt like a teenager, watching those silly dance shows from the Jersey shore with my sister on TV.
  • Convincing Big Jim to go on the Crazy Kangeroo ride with me (he screamed like a baby the entire time).
  • The local dance schools' performance. I love to watch how serious the little girls are about the sevillanas, their faces contorted in determined concentration.
  • Vino y Pasa's lounge act Saturday night. After providing a pop show for the kids on Friday, Saturday they toned down the action for a more family night of pasa dobles. Big Jim and I were some of very few expats mixed among the throngs of Spanish in the makeshift open-air dinner/dance hall that usually serves as the school's basketball court. We saw many of our neighbors and our landlord Pepe (who has an uncanny resemblance to Uncle Junior of the "Sopranos"; we refer to him and his cohort of card-playing buddies as the Village Mafia).
  • Churros y chocolate: For those not familar with churros, they are essentially fried dough. They are similar to a PA Dutch treat called funnel cake, which I know from growing up in southeastern PA, except they are much thicker and cut into eight-inch sticks. And then, instead of sprinkling with icing sugar, they are dipped into a cup of thick, hot chocolate.
  • Seeing Almendena drinking a San Miguel (the vast majority of Spanish women in our village over 50 are never seen drinking alcohol, at least in public) and right from the bottle!
  • Having lunch with Big Jim and T. Sunday at one of the seaside fish restaurants in Torre del Mar.
  • The beach itself. The water was perfect, and T. noted the sensation I love when one swims a bit from shore: you feel as if you have the entire Med to yourself.
  • Dinner at M.A.'s Sunday evening and watching the procession of horses and riders, completely bedecked in their finest.
  • The finale fireworks, the proper pretty kind, not just the bangers.
  • Experiencing jetlag without traveling. In a 2-day span, I went from getting up at 6:30 am to not going to bed until the same time.
  • The local town band serenading us and our neighbors on Calle Salares.
  • The deserted village yesterday, as everyone was indoors sleeping and recovering.

We also had some fireworks of our own, which is how I've wound up with a shiner. When our friend G. visited in May, he brought Big Jim a packet of 10 fireworks. We decided it would be fun to set them off from M.A.'s roof terrace Sunday night. They weren't particularly powerful ones, mainly fountain sprays, although a couple also were loaded with rockets. As I was looking up to the sky, enjoying the pretty red and green lights above my head, I suddenly felt as though I had been punched in my eye and fell to my knees. M.A. sprung into action and quickly got me some ice and a brandy. There was a small lump on my eyebrow, and the guys pretty much thought I was overreacting, convinced I had been hit with just some paper from the firework packaging (this coming from two men with zero pain tolerance). To their surprise, I woke up yesterday with a swollen and black & blue eye. T. suggested I add red and purple eye shadow to the other eye to make the look more of a fashion statement. I'm still not sure what hit me, perhaps some debris from the rocket. But the lesson, kids, is to let the fireworks to professionals. I for one am sticking to sparklers in the future. :-)

T. returned to Frankfurt yesterday evening, so today it's back to work for me and back to looking for a job for Big Jim.  The dogs are no longer terrified to venture outdoors for their walks, and C.K. is back to sleeping in her bed. She took advantage of the dogs' fearful state and freely slept spread out in the kitchen and on the stairs and roof terrace, knowing that during the feria the dogs would be too bothered to harass her. She is a clever kitty. The neighbors are back to their routine as well. The women are mopping away the last bits of feria from the streets, and the streamers are beginning to sag. All will be quiet for another couple of weeks, when the wine festival begins.

hasta manana,

mylifeinspain 

 

Saturday, July 24, 2004

for cora

Dear Cora, Happy Birthday! I can't believe you are already 2 years old! Uncle Jimmy and I hope that you have the happiest of days. Be sure to make a mess with your birthday cake. Ask your mommy how to mix it with milk for good sloppy fun. She used to be an expert at this. We wish that we could be there to help you celebrate your big day, but do know that we are thinking of you, our favorite little senorita. Much love, Tia R. p.s. Your present should have arrived, but if not, it's on its way. :-)

miracle of miracles...

Our phone line is back in action, yay! The service was restored yesterday afternoon, just like the CSR from Telefonica said it might be. I think we may have received a bump up the priority list because the bank was so apologetic about the matter. I must remember to thank Juan next time I see him. I can't tell you what a relief it is to have the Internet back. I forget sometimes how much I have come to rely on it. Not only is it critical for my work but the Internet also is the primary way I keep in touch with friends and family and the world in general. I use it to get news, to shop, to listen to the radio and football games, to quickly find answers to those "it's on the tip of my tongue" needling questions. Without this lifeline, I panic. I am so happy to have finished my work for the week and made all my deadlines. I plan to do very little today with the exception of magazine reading and trying to stay cool. The temperature is fairly normal for this time of year, but it's also unusually humid. After a late dinner last night, T., M.A., Big Jim, and I had a nightcap on the roof terrace, and at 2 am, we were still sweating. Big Jim and T. went hiking yesterday, attempting to reach the summit of Maroma. They set out at 6 am, to get a jump on the heat. At 1:30, I received a call from Big Jim, saying they would be back in about three hours and that I should put more water in the fridge. They arrived back closer to 5:30, Big Jim noticably thinner. After several glasses of water and juice, he weighed himself. He had lost 4 kilos, just under 9 pounds, since the morning. We did venture out to inspect the feria activities last night. At 2:30, the fairgrounds were still pretty packed. Somehow the many babies managed to sleep, despite the booming techno music coming from the amusement rides. All the favorites are back from last year, as I expected, but they've also added a carousel for the little ones. The schoolyard has been turned into an open-air restaurant and entertainment center. The rocked-up version of the local flamenco band Vino y Pasas was playing last night. I so get a kick out of the lead singer because he clearly has aspirations of being the next Enrique Iglesias. We wandered around for about an hour or so, but we were all pretty tired and were back in bed by 4 am. Not a bad effort, but we'll have to rest up today if we are to have any hope of partying tonight with the Spanish until dawn. :-) hasta manana, mylifeinspain

Friday, July 23, 2004

rant #1: i hate telefonica

There are many reasons why I hate Telefonica (which for those who don’t know is the principal telecom company in Spain), but the most recent reason is that we currently do not have a phone line and therefore no Internet connection. Yesterday afternoon, at about 3 pm, the Internet connection went dead mid-e-mail. I didn’t think much of it because from time to time this happens for five minutes or so. But after half an hour, it still wasn’t working, so I checked and reset the DSL box, checked the phone cables, and everything seemed in order. Big Jim was on his way to pick up T. at the airport, but he had planned to buy a few things at Lidl, so I thought I’d give him a call to get his advice. When I tried to put in the numbers, though, I found there was no dial tone, just an odd beeping noise. Bugger. I went back to editing, but was preoccupied because I need the Internet most importantly for work. My clients are in the US, and e-mail is our primary communication vehicle. Additionally, I need to do a lot of fact checking for the articles I edit, and the Internet is my main research tool. And of course I have a deadline Friday (today), which means without an Internet connection, my access to the company’s FTP site is cut off. About 10 minutes later, I hear Big Jim opening the front door, “It’s only me….When I changed my shorts (which he did just before leaving for the airport), I left my wallet in the other pair. Or at least I hope that’s what I did.” Very auspicious beginning to T.’s visit. “We have no phone line,” I yell from the office upstairs. Fortunately, Big Jim’s missing wallet was a short-lived mystery, and it was indeed in his other pair of shorts. The phone line was going to prove to be more problematic. Big Jim agreed he would call Telefonica’s [no]help line to report the problem as soon as he got to the airport.  I went back to work, still distracted. About an hour and a half later, the phone rings. “Yay!” I think, “the phone’s back on.” It was Big Jim. “I’ve just spoken to Telefonica, and they have cut off the phone because they say we haven’t paid the bill.” But we had paid the bill Tuesday, admittedly 1 day after the due date, simply because I forgot in the midst of my crazy work schedule. It’s always due the 19th of the month, but honestly July has flown by so quickly, I lost track of the date. Monday night I realized I had forgotten, so Big Jim went to the bank the next day and paid it. This is a common practice here, paying bills directly at the bank, and one until now, I quite approved of. No hour spent every month writing checks, buying stamps, etc. Big Jim asked that I call them back with the receipt for the payment. I schlep out to the main square in the village, where our one pay phone is located, and call 1004, the customer service line. The only good thing I can say about Telefonica is they do have a service line in English, which is extremely helpful when you’re pissed off and can’t think clearly to do subjunctive verb conjugations. The sun was shining directly on the plaza, and the phone booth was like an oven, sweat running down my back and face. “Yes, can I help you?” “I hope so,” and begin to provide the appropriate details. According to this woman, the bank has not indicated to Telefonica that the bill has been paid. Of course, they haven’t; they’re off busy with feria preparations. Who cares about processing paperwork when there is a holiday to celebrate?! I get a sinking feeling that the bank has closed until next Tuesday, after the feria ends. I explain this dilemma to the service representative. Her voice provides no sympathy. She tells me they will not reconnect the line until they receive notice from the bank that the bill has been paid, and then it will be 24 to 48 hours until our service is fully restored. I tell her this is unacceptable, etc., etc.; she replies, “Well you should have an account with Banesto, our preferred bank. Then your payment would be applied immediately.” I don’t know that I’ve ever seen a Banesto bank. They are probably all over Spain, but not in our village or any of the villages around us. I tell her I think it’s unreasonable to cut people’s service off for a payment that is, according to them, 2-and-a-half days late (in actuality, 1 day late). Perhaps we Americans are spoiled, but I believe most utility companies there have a grace period of a week or so before service is discontinued. “You should have received a letter advising you that line would be disconnected,” she adds. Impossible, I think to myself. There’s no way they would have sent a letter already….we’ll probably receive it two weeks from now. I throw in the towel. I’m too hot to argue. I decide to pop by the bank to see whether they are open during the feria. There is a sign posted: they will be open but with limited hours. So in about an hour, I’m going to gather all our receipts for the past two years and take them to the bank teller and let her sort it out. Even if she does convince Telefonica that the bill has been paid, with the weekend, they won’t do a thing about restoring the line until next week. Therefore, we reckon we’ll be without the phone and Internet until Wednesday or so. As far as my work goes, I can use our friend C.’s computer to send the files today (and post this entry), but I won’t be able to return all of them because he’s going out later in the day (it is the feria, don’t forget); the rest will have to wait until Monday. This could not have happened at a worse time; I can’t even use the Internet café in the village because it has closed for the weekend. :Deep sigh:  Snafus like this do discourage me, I must admit. After a couple years of one disappointment after another, I’m a bit worn down. Intellectually, I realize this problem is a short-term inconvenience at most, and in the big scheme of things, a very trivial matter. My ability to rationalize has become a bit skewed. When we had the huge hassle with Telefonica to have a phone line put into the house before we moved in, I spoke with our friend Miguel, who works at one of the cafes in the village. He nodded in empathy, but replied, “Ah, you have only had to struggle with Telefonica for two years; we have had to struggle with them for all of our lives.” Point taken. Telefonica has never been known to be a customer-friendly company. They were recently fined 73 million euros for what I believe was misleading advertising as they attempted to continue to monopolize the telecom market here. I am sure there will be some sort of rate hike in the near future to cover these losses. In the mean time, I probably won’t be posting until next week. I need to pull myself out of this funk while T. is here. It would be most unfair to him to mope around, feeling sorry for myself during his visit, especially because he brought me a huge pile of magazines from Frankfurt: two copies of the New Yorker and the Nation, an Atlantic Monthly, and for my nonintellectual side, a Vanity Fair and two issues of the very trashy National Enquirer, so I can spend the weekend reading up on Christina Aguilera’s love child and the like. Oh dear…the first cohetes (rockets) have gone off (it’s not even 8 am), signaling the start of the feria for today. In my distress over the phone, I had forgotten about this. The pups are very unhappy and have just run under my desk to hide. I think they will have a short walk this morning. Must be off, but I do have a question for Spanish readers: do you use Telefonica or do you have phone service with another provider? How do the others’ rates and service compare? You can reply using the comments feature below. Thanks! In the meantime, I will adopt a more Spanish response to the phone issue. When I begin to get angry, I will stop, shrug my shoulders, and remind myself, “Asi es la vida.” hasta pronto (I hope), mylifeinspain     p.s. The funniest thing has just happened. After I finished writing my rant, I went to have a shower. Just as I had lathered my hair with shampoo, more rockets went off. Two seconds later, the dogs barged into the bathroom, seeking my console. The next thing I know, Precious Boo is standing next to me in the shower; I look to my right to see Mr. Beebs crawling in the other side of the tub, so frightened. I laughed hysterically at the absurdity of this picture. They stood on either side of me, waiting patiently until I conditioned my hair as well. Sometimes we need little reminders of what’s important in life. When battling big corporations like Telefonica, one can be made to feel most insignificant and powerless and small. These two dogs just reminded me that is not the case. :-) p.p.s. Just returned from the bank. The man there was very helpful and apologetic. He called Telefonica straightaway. It’s possible our line will be reactivated later today, but most likely Monday. I can live with that. Additionally, I found out the official Telefonica policy: they discontinue service if bills are not paid within 48 hours of the due date. Ours had been, but there was the delay at the bank transferring the data. Lesson learned: be sure to pay phone bill several days in advance of due date; the Telefonica records still showed our bill as unpaid three days later. Also, a pat on my back for handling entire transaction at the bank in Spanish. The staff there is multilingual, and many expats take the easy route and speak in their native language. I refuse to do that unless it’s a life or death situation. One final note: My entire experience here has given me such a respect for immigrants who come to America. How daunting our systems must be, and they vary from state to state, etc. How many banks in small-town USA have multilingual staff to assist foreigners? We are fortunate that Spain has been so accommodating. Sure, the country benefited from our presence, but I believe the Spanish have been particularly helpful. I will never like Telefonica though. :-)

Thursday, July 22, 2004

the return of the jura

In just under 12  hours, our friend T. will be sitting on the roof terrace, beer in hand, watching Big Jim fan the grill. I suppose we're ready. Because I've been having these marathon work sessions, Big Jim has been in charge of the other arrangements. Normally, he is hyperorganized and likes to plan agendas and menus in advance of guests' arrivals, but last night I had to ask him what we would be grilling tonight.  He casually replied, "Oh, I'll just marinade some chicken legs and pork kebabs and make some rice and a salad." And as far as a schedule, "Well, T. and I plan to get up early Friday and hike Maroma (the 6500-ft. mountain that serves as a backdrop to our village), and we'll all go to the beach Sunday." But what about Saturday and Monday...could it be that Big Jim has finally regained some of the spontaneity that I first loved about him, but that was stifled during the 4 years he lived in order-driven Germany? (I feel I must add my ancestry is three-quarters German; I love Germans and Germany. But many of the things they do amuse me. Like, for example, the way 50 people will stand on a street corner and there won't be a car for miles, but no one will cross the street until the light changes. And god forbid if you do [I have]; many will look away and "tsk, tsk" you under their breath. It's hilarious.) For two-and-a-half years, I have had to remind Big Jim, "Relax, you're in Spain. There's no hurry. Tranquilo." Perhaps because this is T.'s sixth visit in less than 3 years, Big Jim is not stressed. There is less pressure knowing that we won't have to play tour guide with him for a week. It's interesting that T. keeps returning so frequently because he has been one of the doubters in the past, one of those who hasn't understood why we would want to live here and struggle. Last summer, he and I were up late talking and he asked me how long Big Jim and I were going to live here like hippies. The use of word "hippies" threw me because I wouldn't say we live like hippies. We have a three-bedroom house, running water, a DSL line for crying out loud, and sufficient possessions to fill at least 75 backpacks, not two. When I think "hippy" I think living a van or squatting in an abandoned finca, camping on the beach, busking for food money. Seeing my confusion, T. followed up with "I mean, what's wrong with living a bourgeois life in the suburbs?" I replied there's nothing wrong with choosing that lifestyle, but we wanted to do something different. He then said, "Well, you want to have children. How are you going to reply when your child insists on having $120 Nike trainers?" "First of all, I won't buy Nike anything out of principle, but if the child really wants them, he/she can save his/her allowance and buy them on eBay for much less." (I love eBay.) :-) Gradually, though, as T.'s visits putter along, we see changes in him. He sleeps in a little later, volunteers to take the dogs on their morning walk on the goat track, spends more time on the roof reading, begins to appreciate the value of good home-cooked food (back in Frankfurt, he goes to the same pizza shop for lunch and orders the same sausage and artichoke heart slices everyday). He must recognize it too, or I don't think he'd keep coming back. Big Jim and I are particularly excited about this visit because he's bringing our Jura coffee machine with him. The Jura is the Jaguar of coffee machines, and one of the Big Jim's most valued possessions. When I would visit him in Munich, he would take me to visit the machine at the shop. He'd hand me a tiny cup to sample the coffee, "Taste that. Isn't that the best coffee you've ever had?" After three trips to admire the coffeemaker, I finally said, "Just buy the thing already." And he did. Last summer, it was time for its service, and of course there is no place in Spain that does the servicing. So T. volunteered to take it back to Germany with him. It was with Jura for a couple of months; the people there were upset with us because we had made 6000 cups of coffee before returning it (we were supposed to send it back at 5000 cups). I can't believe it's been away for a year. The Jura can be dangerous, you see. It's like having coffee on draught 24 hours a day. You simply stick your mug under the nozzle, decide if you want a small cup or a full mug, and press the button accordingly. The machine warms the beans and grinds them; it tells you (in three languages) when to empty the grounds or fill the water tank (which has its own filter) or when it needs to be cleaned. It's brilliant and really does make the best coffee. Tomorrow morning, there will be no filling the kettle, scooping the coffee into the French press, waiting for the coffee to steep. No, just a touch of the button is all that will be required, which is probably a good thing, seeing that tonight is the first night of the feria. :-) hasta manana, mylifeinspain

Wednesday, July 21, 2004

countdown to feria/sangria

Late yesterday morning there was a commotion outside the office window. Listening to the radio with my headphones, I was only vaguely aware of the voices. A few minutes later, Big Jim said, "Look out the window." Antonio and Iluminada's grandchildren had strung red and blue paper streamers between all the houses in our corner of Calle Salares. Big Jim yelled down to them, "Thanks, but my birthday's not until January." The children giggled. "Viva la feria!" exclaimed Almendena as she returned from the market. A little later in the day, I went out with D. to translate for him at the medical center. He needed to see whether the results of his blood tests had arrived. I was surprised to see during the morning men from the townhall had hung the strings of paper Spanish and Andalucian flags all down our main "street", Calle San Antonio (I put street in quotes because c. San Antonio is barely wide enough for a car to pass without scraping the wing mirrors). The amusement rides have begun to arrive as well. As always, there will be the "kangaru", which is like the "spider" ride I remember from the fairs in my hometown, lots of arm-type extensions that move up and down as the ride spins at faster and faster velocities. There will also be the bumper cars, or dodge 'ems, as the English refer to them. According to Big Jim, they are called dodge 'ems because in the UK you are not supposed to bump into other cars; you will get a stern talking to from the ride supervisor if you do. Seems a bit of a pointless exercise and not nearly as fun to me, but just another example of how Americans and Brits see the world through different colored glasses. Perhaps the American approach is a testament to our thirst for more violence. Not sure.... Fly zapper update: My entry from a couple days ago turned out to be oddly prescient. M.A. came by yesterday afternoon with the money for her new computer, which Big Jim was to pick up last evening (that brings the total to 4 computers Big Jim is currently working on for other people). She came into the office with a large shopping bag, which contained a brand new fly zapper! M.A. had been shopping on the coast Monday and saw that Casa (a home and garden store) had a bunch of zappers in the window, so she bought them up. Now Big Jim and I have his and hers zappers. Mine is tangerine orange and Big Jim's is lime green. A professional, Big Jim has also reinforced the head of his with a couple metal plates and duct tape (for those really, really enormous and strong-willed flies....crazy  man). I then had to listen to Big Jim give a 10-minute tutorial on his theory and approaches to fly zapping. As I much as I detest the flies, I don't believe I'll ever get the same thrill that Big Jim does as a trapped fly sizzles on the meshed wires. But you never know.... Sangria, I've seen a hundred different recipes for sangria of varied ingredients and complexity. I'm listing my easy, easy instructions, guaranteed to refresh the drinker on the hottest and most humid of summer days. Here's what you need: Red wine (don't splash out on an expensive wine; a decent red table wine will suffice) Casera (if you can't get Casera, a lemon- or lime-flavored seltzer water is a good replacement) Fresh-squeezed orange juice (again, oranges are abundant here, so we usually make our own juice; you can use juice from a carton if you must) Lots of ice Sliced oranges, nectarines, apples, lemons Fill a pitcher just over one third with the wine. Add about the same amount of Casera. Top off with the orange juice. Your pitcher should now be three quarters full. Add the ice, and garnish with the fruit. Simple. Must be off. I have a lot of work to do before T.'s arrival tomorrow. I am also going to try to post a photo or two in the next couple days of the children's streamer handiwork, so check back. :-) hasta pronto, mylifeinspain

Tuesday, July 20, 2004

first top 10

I am a huge fan of lists. I love them so much that I've decided to add an occasional "top 10" list feature to the blog. If you've been reading the blog with any sort of regularity, you also have gathered I love food, so it's only fitting that my first top 10 list be food related. Here's a list of just some of my favorite restaurants, in no particular order.  
  1. Ray's Cafe, Philadelphia, PA: Taiwanese restaurant with the best dumpling sampler and coffee in Philadelphia. For about $3 you can have an amazing cup of coffee, made in a siphon pot and served beautifully on a tray with a butter cookie, a miniature pitcher of cream, and a gold-tipped spoon.
  2. Posada Meson Mudejar, Archez, Spain (www.posadamesonmudejar.com): Hands down the best restaurant I've been to near the village. I always get the solomillo al ajillo and the rice pudding for dessert. The rice pudding is so good it will make you cry.
  3. Schaefer's Canal House, Chesapeake City, MD: My family made the two-hour drive to this restaurant at least once a year. Situated right on the water, every visit was a mini-vacation for  us.
  4. Melrose Diner, Philadelphia, PA: I mentioned the Melrose previously. What every American diner should be. I especially loved to go there Sunday mornings before an Eagles game. Half the patrons would be wearing jerseys, and the atmosphere would be electric with hope of an Eagles win (before reality set in and the Eagles blew another lead and lost).
  5. Formy's Barbeque, Painter, VA: I once convinced a friend to take a spur of the moment trip from Philadelphia to Virginia, just so that I could have a pork bar-b-que sandwich from Formy's. It was worth the trip to a place whose motto is "We sell no swine before its time."
  6. Mr. Martinos, Philadelphia, PA: Fabulous Italian trattoria in South Philly. Great eating, and Mark and Maria make you feel like you're part of the family.
  7. Snuzzle's, outside of Kutztown, PA: A bar and sandwich place not far from my parents' house. Located on a hill overlooking the PA Dutch countryside, its ski lodge atmosphere is perfect on winter nights. Great cheese fries, and my mother and I will never forget the day we saw a wildcat in the field outside our window.
  8. Vietnam Restaurant, Philadelphia, PA: Love the soup, love the stuffed grape leaves, love, love, love the noodles. And all washed down with a "flaming volcano", guaranteed to get you and your dining companion completely blathered.
  9. Any of the seafood restaurants along the promenade in Torre del Mar, Spain: They're all perfect for a plate of fritura de pescado and a pitcher of sangria as you overlook the beach and the Med.
  10. Savoy Grille, London, UK: Big Jim surprised me with a weekend at the Savoy about 4 years ago, complete with a trip to the theatre (where Donald Sutherland was performing) and dinner afterward at the Grille. Can't remember what I had anymore because I was too busy watching Terrance Stamp at the next table.

Monday, July 19, 2004

the best christmas present ever

Besides the benefits of solitude and quiet I receive from getting up early in the morning, there is an added bonus---no flies! One aspect of living in a warm climate that I never considered before moving here was the summer proliferation of flies. One's lifestyle changes dramatically the day the season's first flies appear. They are young charges, recently birthed, small and slow, and can be dealt with quite easily. It's the strong ones who survive that continue to torture us in mid-July. These guys are feisty and conniving and must be not be underestimated. The fly covers are immediately brought out. These are woven wire domes that are placed over bowls of fruit, plates of chicken, etc. to keep the food free of flies. We immediately stop reusing glasses and coffee mugs throughout the day; the sight of two flies chasing one another around the rim of my juice cup quickly sends me to the dishwasher for a replacement glass. The Spanish have an effective fly-management tool: the beaded curtain. The majority of homes in our village have some form of beaded curtain hanging at their front door, which allows people to either keep open just their door windows or the door itself for air circulation without worrying about armies of flies invading. Some curtains are made of actual beads, whereas others comprise long twisted plastic strips. We have also seen some made of old wine corks, which Big Jim and I liked very much. Therefore, we have been saving our own corks ever since and should have enough soon to start stringing them. Despite our best efforts, some of the nasty buggers do manage to make it into the house and multiply very quickly. Big Jim, being the traditional hunter/gatherer male personality, takes their raid on our property personally. The first summer he valiantly fought them off with a traditional flyswatter, but despite his heroic efforts, the flies won many a battle. I became accustomed to flies sitting on my fingers as a typed away on my laptop. Flies could run up and down my legs, and I wouldn't flinch. I attempted to overcome them from the psychological angle. The following December I was online doing some Christmas shopping, and I came across the holy grail of flyswatters---the handheld zapper. The zapper looks like a standard tennis racquet, but instead of the traditional netting, the tightly woven "strings" are electrified wires. I immediately thought of Big Jim and decided I would get him one as a gag Christmas present. One Christmas Day, the zapper was a huge hit. Big Jim and our friends G. and T., who were spending the holidays with us, spent hours stalking and eliminating the heartiest of flies who had lived through to December. They were no match for the zapper. Big Jim exclaimed, "Honey, this is the best Christmas present ever!, " and he has repeated this sentiment many times in the past 18 months. He now carries the zapper with him around the house. While Big Jim is waiting for a new pot of coffee to brew, he kills the flies in the kitchen. He has developed good technique with the zapper, and he especially loves the poppy, crackling noise it makes when he successfully targets a fly in midflight. "Did you hear that one?" Big Jim yells excitedly up from dining room. I smile to myself, amazed that the novelty of this Christmas present has not worn off. The cashmere sweaters are packed away, and the carefully chosen books and DVDs are stacked collecting dust; it's the electronic fly zapper that earned me another tiny corner of Big Jim's heart. Go figure. hasta manana, mylifeinspain

Sunday, July 18, 2004

refreshed and recharged

Big Jim and I just returned from our weekly sojourn to Torre del Mar and the playa. It was a particularly pleasant beach day. The sun was shining, and it wasn't too hot. The water was nice and warm, and there was a gentle breeze, which made it a good day for sailing. The Med was peppered with many boats and windsurfers. The children were all having great fun, and there were several groups of teenagers playing cards. Big Jim and I both got in quite a bit of reading and several long swims. I love that the Med typically doesn't have large waves and strong tides, unlike the Atlantic, where I've done most of my swimming. I can swim out from shore much farther than I would have dared in the Atlantic. I remember one time in Virginia my sister and I got caught in a rip tide.  I knew not to swim toward shore, but rather parallel, which I did and then was able to help my sister back to a place where she could stand. We were fine, but only after a couple of scary minutes. Today, though, the water could not have been more gorgeous or clear. At 8 pm, slightly groggy from a few blissed-out hours in the sun, Big Jim and I packed up the towels and umbrella, and headed to the Nestle kiosk. The ice cream today was very sweet.

the village sleeps

It's almost 9:15 am, and I'm the only person awake on Calle Salares. I love that all of my neighbors (and Big Jim) are late risers, particularly on Sundays. It's nice to see people take advantage of their day of rest. This weekend is just speeding by. I worked yesterday because I'm trying to finish the assignments I have on my plate before the feria begins later this week and before T. arrives Thursday evening. Big Jim was busy yesterday as well. I believe there are people who think he must not have enough to do because of being out of work, but that is so not true. First, he ran out to the produce market to pick up a few things we didn't find on our shopping trip Friday: some gorgeous plum tomatoes (which interestingly the Spanish call "pear tomatoes") and more cherries. I never liked cherries before, or perhaps I never liked the varieties of cherries available in Pennsylvania. But here, I can't get enough of them. Big Jim quickly dropped off the purchases and then rushed out again to meet J. The Spanish builders (a husband and wife team) of J. and M.'s house in the campo just finished another house outside of Canillas, which they are about to rent. So they needed Big Jim to take digital photos of the place before the new tenants move in. On the way back to town, he met M.A. in the square. She had an appointment to look at a used computer for sale and wanted Big Jim's opinion. We have been encouraging M.A. to get another computer for a year. She's been using an archaic Mac and having lots of problems with her Internet connection, which she uses to keep in touch with her friends back in Norway. It turned out the PC for sale was a great deal (190 euros for a pentium II), and M.A. has plunged into PC world. Her one complaint: the solitare program is different than the one she has on the Mac. There are few computers in the village that Big Jim hasn't worked on at some point. People have suggested and Big Jim and I have discussed him making a business out of this, but truthfully it's not the right line of work for him. I tried to explain this to a chef friend of ours by making the analogy that Big Jim becoming a computer repairman would be like limiting her work in the kitchen to grilled cheese sandwiches.  As it is, our house looks like a computer graveyard. Big Jim currently has three computers he's working on for other people. We have three spare monitors in the washroom, perfectly good throwaways from our friend G.'s workplace, in addition to Big Jim's three computers and my laptop.  Rarely, Big Jim has accepted payment from people, when they absolutely insist. But most of the time his customers show their appreciation in the form of bottles of wine, although he has also accepted a couple of paintings from one of the local artists and a few quail from a farmer (the quail were delicious, by the way). Never a big fan of cash, I like to see that the barter system is still in effect. Last night we had dinner with our friends D. and U. They are lovely people who have retired here from London and are my surrogate parents away from home. They have been having a tough time of late as well, so we haven't seen much of them in the past six weeks. D. has congestive heart failure and really cannot be outdoors in the summer heat. Therefore, they tend to bunker down in their air-conditioned rooms for the majority of days from June through mid-September. We had a delicious dinner on their roof terrace last evening. U. is a fabulous cook. She took her gap year after university to take a culinary course in France. Being always thoughtful, she made American-style fried chicken for us last night, three salads (shrimp and crab, potato, and a simple tomato, cucumber, and onion number), and strawberries with homemade meringue for dessert. Her desserts are the most amazing, and the chocolate cream pie she does is her masterpiece.  It's just turned 10 am, and the smell of freshly brewed coffee will soon spill out of the neighbors' kitchen windows. It's time for me to get another cup myself and wake up Big Jim. I actually have the dogs do this dirty work. Big Jim is the most miserable person in the morning. It takes at least an hour and two cups of coffee before it's safe to say "Good morning, how are you?" He claims that is too difficult a question for him to manage first thing in the day. So, I've taught the dogs to wake him up. I just say, "Go wake up Big Jim" and they do. Mr. Beebs jumps up and kisses his face. Precious Boo is more subtle. She stands next to the bed and quietly huffs at him and gently kisses his hand. We have very clever dogs. Must get to work. I want to finish editing a few files before we head to the beach this afternoon. It's turned a bit warmer in the past couple days (about 87, 88 F), and a few hours of doing nothing by the Med is definitely in order. hasta manana, mylifeinspain p.s. if you haven't done so, post your pin on the guestmap. :-)

Saturday, July 17, 2004

shopping

Big Jim and I traveled down from the mountain yesterday to the coast for our biweekly shopping trip. We figured we could miss the weekend rush if we went on Friday. But rebaja (sale) season had begun, and the parking lot was jammed. We had a look around the department stores, but in the end we didn't buy anything. I found an Espana soccer tee shirt in the Zara children's shop, but alas none in my niece's size. So we headed to Eroski, which is the big supermarket but we think sounds more like a Polish porn shop. Eroski is technically a hipermercado, and its size can be overwheming at first.  For example, there is one entire aisle of serrano ham legs (we tend to steer our vegetarian friends away from that section) and another just of canned tuna and other assorted seafood. During the Christmas season, a giant, 25-foot Christmas tree of hams is erected in the middle of the store; it really is something one needs to see. We typically only pick up a few things at Eroski. They have a huge fresh seafood counter, for one, and they also sell chicken carcasses and fresh bones for the dogs (I'm a big proponent of raw foods for the pups; search "BARF diet" on the web for info. I've converted at least eight pets so far). Big Jim also likes the garden center, and we never seem to have enough potting soil. I also managed to find two petunia plants for 70 cents each. Brightly colored flowers are a prerequisite in the village; as many as one can fit on the window sills and directly in front of the house itself, the better.  The entire length of our house is lined with plants in big terra cotta pots. After 11 years of living in Philadelphia, at first I used to worry people would steal or vandalize them, but I've gotten over that. The only thing that has been stolen has been some of our herbs, which we keep outside the kitchen window for easy access. But we know the culpable party; it's the shrew of a woman who lives next door. We've been in this house for 18 months, and she's the only neighbor whose name we don't know. She has a permanent scowl afixed to her face and can barely manage lift her head long enough to get out a gruff hola. Big Jim and I on separate occasions caught her first casing the kitchen and pinching some basil and marjoram. She looked so ridulous crouched down and hunched over as she loaded up her apron pockets that we couldn't be angry. So she has garnered our nickname of "Herb thief". But I digress, back at Eroski, Big Jim has found a frying pan he quite likes. Our largest frying pan is in need of replacement, the nonstick finish beginning to flake. I look at the pricetag; it's 29 euros. It's a nice pan, but I tell Big Jim I remember seeing a very similar one at Dunnes, the department store, for 25 euros. I hate quibbling about 4 euros (5 dollars), but in tough times, every euro counts. Big Jim dislikes the reminders that these indeed are tough times and begins to sulk. He now doesn't want the pan. Okay, I say and head to the pasta section. After a couple more minutes of feeling sorry for himself, he rejoins me; his tantrum has passed. We finish up at the Polish porn shop and drive across the road to Lidl, where we buy the bulk of our groceries. Lidl is a no-frills grocery store that has less selection than the larger supermarkets but still carries all the basics and at about 30 to 40% less the cost. The quality is very good, and they encourage recycling (you have to buy plastic bags if you choose to use them, for example), which I also like. Because its a German-owned chain, they carry some of the bratwursts and other sausages that Big Jim misses from his 4 years of living in Munich, another bonus. As I was picking up some coffee, I noticed a set of pots and pans out for display. I inspected it more closely. There were 13 pieces total, all heavy stainless steel, and the set included the frying pan Big Jim and I were arguing about not 30 minutes previously. The price for the entire lot: 38 euros, only 9 euros more than the pan at Eroski's. I called Big Jim over. He approved, agreeing we would find uses for the extra pieces. The box went in the cart, problem solved, and a great bargain to boot. I've been away from the US for too long to remember exactly what a comparable set of German-made pots and pans would cost there, but I know it's a hell of a lot more than $45. We drove up the mountain, happy as clams with our purchases. As we passed through Sayalonga, we noticed the streamers of Spanish and Andalucian paper flags strung across the streets, the tell-tale signs of a village feria in these parts. The same amusement ride and churro vendors will set up shop in our village in just a few days. When Big Jim and I took the dogs for their evening walk last night we realized how quiet the village was for a Friday. The entire town had gone to bed early, resting up for the 5-day party that officially begins Thursday. Can't wait. hasta pronto, mylifeinspain

Friday, July 16, 2004

happy friday

Just a quick post to say happy friday to everyone. It's been a pretty good week here. Last night M.A. stopped by and had dinner with us. We sat on the roof terrace until midnight, watching two geckos having sex on the side of the neighbor's house. What can I say, when you live in a mountain village this is entertainment. Also, I added a guest book to the blog, so be sure to add yourself to the map. Hasta luego, mylifeinspain

Thursday, July 15, 2004

"that bird is going to die"/albondigas in red sauce

I am up early again today. I made some coffee and went up to the roof terrace to survey the weather. Just another perfect summer day. Oh well, better get a batch of laundry in the washing machine. Perhaps I can even beat our neighbor Almendena and hang our clothes on the line first. I swear the women in the neighborhood have a daily competition to see who can hang their laundry first. After a late night listening to the local flamenco band play at La Roca, Big Jim and I caught Almendena putting wash into the machine at 3 am. She's a fierce competitor. The village was incredibly still and tranquil this morning...until the neighbor's bird woke. Antonio and Iluminada have this horribly annoying bird that lives in a cage on their terrace. Big Jim and I haven't been able to discern exactly what kind of bird it is. It's not particularly big, but it is loud. Really loud. Unfortunately, its birdsong is not pleasant. It alternates between squawking and screeching. I was once speaking to a client on the telephone, and he said in a slighty embarrassed voice, "Um, perhaps you should go tend to your child; it sounds like he needs your attention more than I." Child, what child? "Oh, that's not a child. That's my neighbor's bird." "That's a bird?" Exactly. Daily, Big Jim threatens to buy an air gun. He won't because he loves animals too much, but it is a tempting proposition. One of my favorite Spanish words is albondigas (meatballs). I'm not sure why; it just rolls nicely off the tongue. Here's the recipe for a common tapas selection in our village. First, the albondigas: 2 lb ground veal and pork, mixed (You can use ground beef, if you prefer. Veal and pork are more traditional here.) 1 T fresh chopped parsley 1 clove garlic, minced 1 beaten egg fresh breadcrumbs Salt and pepper Flour Olive oil Combine meat, parsley, egg, breadcrumbs (about 2 oz.), S&P, and form into small meatballs. Dredge with the flour and fry until crispy in the olive oil. Next, the sauce (sometimes called sofrito): 2 large onions, chopped 2 red peppers, chopped 1 lb tomatoes (or 14 oz can), chopped 2 cloves garlic, crushed Olive oil Salt and pepper 1 glass sherry or dry white wine Gently slow fry on low heat the onions and peppers in olive oil (don't be afraid---use a generous amount, 1/4 to 1/2 cup) in a large frying pan for about 25 minutes. Add the tomatoes, and continue to slow fry until the ingredients form a pulp. Add the garlic and S&P. Transfer ingredients to a blender or food processor and mix until smooth. Stir in the sherry. Heat the sauce in a cazuela (casserole) and add the meatballs. Simmer for 1 hour. These can be served alone as a tapa or with rice or pasta as a main course. They're very yummy either way. hasta manana, mylifeinspain

Wednesday, July 14, 2004

a couple of the good things....

Yesterday I received a telephone call from a representative of my new health insurance company in Spain. Being an American who spent years screening telephone calls to escape the deluge of telemarketers who felt it acceptable to interrupt dinner in every US home night after night to offer us the latest and greatest in salad spinners, aluminum siding, and free long-distance calling plans, I felt the hairs on my neck stand up in anticipation of the sales pitch. But no, this woman was simply calling to welcome me to the health plan and to confirm I had received my new policy and that all the information on the policy was correct. She also wanted me to know that the company had added an English information line should I ever require assistance in my native tongue. I thanked her and as I hung up the phone, I thought, "How nice." Overwhelmed with the friendliness and no-sales angle of the call, it was hours later that I realized I had successfully managed another telephone conversation in Spanish. Because there are no visual cues to follow, mastering the telephone call can be difficult, my final hurdle on the road to near-fluency. So I gave myself a belated pat on the back. The telemarketer's partner in crime, junk mail, is virtually nonexistent in Spain as well. Back in Philadelphia, I would stop by my lobby mailbox on my way in after work. Day after day without fail, the box was stuffed. In addition to the ubiquitous utility bills and credit card statements, I received reams of catalogues and pleas for money from every nonprofit organization in America. The catalogues tempted me with clothes, housewares, shoes, furniture, underwear, books, exercise videos, and typically arrived two per day, except in November and December, when the volume increased threefold in anticipation of the Christmas season. I was slightly less disturbed by the requests from the nonprofits because many of the charities do good work. On a publishing salary I never had lots of extra money, but I would pick a group every month and donate $25. I happily sponsored turkey dinners at Thanksgiving, cats at no-kill animal shelters, and AIDS research. But my letter holder was overflowing with the address-return stickers and stationery the nonprofits included as thank-you gifts for your donation. And how many calendars does the ASPCA think I need! So I thank Spain for not getting on the direct marketing bandwagon, and I hope that they never do. It's refreshing coming home to an empty mailbox and not being awoken Sunday mornings by callers trying to sell me the New York Times. And never have Big Jim and I been interrupted during dinner by someone hawking gym equipment or bread makers. To quote Martha Stewart, "It's a good thing." hasta manana, mylifeinspain

Monday, July 12, 2004

the string bikini

Yesterday marked a milestone in my life: the day I dared to wear a string bikini to the beach. Technically, my first swimming suit ever, as an infant, was a string bikini, but that was years before America's puritanical and body-obsessed culture took over my psyche. The first bikini I wore as an adult was purchased 6 years ago, when I took a last-minute trip by myself to Barbados to escape from an especially dreary Philadephia February. After several years of running regularly I summoned the courage, but I still played safe and bought a black two-piece suit; black, you know, is slimming we're always told. My only request to the travel agent was to stay somewhere quiet, far away from the hedonistic island resorts, so I was booked into a small hotel in a restored British colonial building right on the beach. The first day I was a bit unsure about the bikini, so I chose to wear the traditional one-piece suit I had also brought with me. As I wandered onto the beach, I quickly realized I was by far the most conservatively dress person. All the women were wearing bikinis, and the men had opted for the banana hammock, the meat hanger, the Speedo. It is critical that I mention that hotel was booked entirely with British pensioners, retirees to Americans; therefore, my beachmates were on average 40 years older than I. There was even an octagenarian sporting her bikini in a wheelchair. The next day, I wore the black bikini. When I moved to Spain, I bought two new two-piece swimsuits: one was a red "tankini" and the second was a blue and white gingham traditional bikini. For our first couple trips to the beach, I wore the tankini, but again I felt overdressed. So after several weeks I worked up the nerve to wear the gingham bikini. I was so happy I had. I found I loved the feeling of water on my belly as I swam out into the sea. The tankini was pushed to the back of the dresser drawer. After two summers of regular swimming, the blue and white bikini began to show signs of wear. The blue had faded, and the fabric had lost a lot of its stretchiness. It was time for the shopping trip that so many woman dread, more than the annual gyno exam or a tooth extraction, time for a new swimming suit. Obviously, living so close to the Med, there is no shortage of swimsuits. They hang in windows of just about every shop, no matter what else is for sale. "Yes, I'd like a half kilo of ham, and I'll take the yellow and green bikini in the window." I have noticed as I aged, I tend to gravitate toward more brightly colored clothes (I fear the appliqued cat sweatshirts favored by middle-aged American women aren't too far down the road). Therefore, the first bikini I pulled from the rack was pink and orange striped. The blue and white gingham bikini now seemed flirty but conservative, and the old black bikini downright staid. Yes, I wanted the pink stripy number. But the first trip to the beach this summer, the pink bikini remained packed away. I had gained a kilo during the winter months and "felt fat". Therefore, I wore the red tankini. Big mistake. I found myself the youngest person on the beach without a completely exposed midriff. The second day I chose the slightly tattered, well-worn gingham bikini and was happier. Yesterday I was about to do the same, but as I looked at myself in the mirror, I was displeased. The elastic in the waistband was a bit saggy, and the small white ruffle border on the top had a faint yellow stain from two years of suncream. It was time to officially retire this suit and inaugurate the new bikini. I pulled it from the shopping bag and realized how tiny the bottoms were. But I pulled them on, tied on the top, making double knots to safeguard against a strong wave exposing even more of my flesh, and stood in front of the mirror again. With all of the self-criticism we women have about our bodies, the worst I could come up with was "Not bad." As a matter of fact, the suit created more cleavage than I ever thought possible given my 36B chest. Even the tiny bottoms covered my butt well enough. As Big Jim set up our umbrella, staking our claim for the day, I looked around the beach. What had I been afraid of. Spanish women are so free with showing their flesh. Young girls go topless and bikinis clad bodies of all shapes and sizes, including two very pregnant women yesterday. Sure my body will never stand up against one of a 19-year-old, but then again I have no interest in reliving that part of my life. I'll keep my extra 17 years and slightly squishy belly anyday. Just one final test, would the string bikini hold up in the water. I made Big Jim accompany me to the edge of the sea. Just in case the tide washed away part of my suit, I wanted him to be there for retrieval purposes. As I swam farther from the shore I realized the suit wasn't going anywhere, another fear proved to be ridulous. So I gave Big Jim the "thumbs up" signal, and he returned to reading the newspaper. I swam and swam and swam, looking back from the Med to our village nestled in the mountains in the distance and was perfectly happy. hasta pronto, mylifeinspain

Sunday, July 11, 2004

the week in review

I did not sleep well because Big Jim was up all night working on my computer. For the past couple weeks, my laptop has been slow and temperamental, so my at-home "tech support" asked if he could have a look. At 2:30 am, I awoke and Big Jim was still up. He had found a virus. This finding dismayed him greatly as he takes tremendous pride in the defense system he has created to fortify our network. I went back to sleep for another couple hours, until 4:30 am, and found Big Jim in the office, dozing over my computer. "Go to bed," I said. "Oh no, just resting my eyes while I'm running a test," he replied. So I returned to the bedroom; the Precious Boo, ever the opportunist, had taken over Big Jim's pillow. I slept for another two hours, and woke up at 6:30 to a stare down by C.K., the cat. She carefully climbs on the bed, tiptoes around the sleeping dogs, sits by my head, and looks down on me with a penetrating glare until I wake. This means, "Feed me now." So I stumble out of bed and head to the kitchen to make coffee and serve up some vittles for C.K. I find Big Jim still in the office. He believes he has fixed my computer, but is running one final test. Big Jim is finally in bed, and my computer seems a better. My Internet connection remains a little slow, and the bug in one of the editing software programs I use is still there. I have a love-hate relationship with my computer. I love that I can easily stay in touch with what's going on back in the US via the Internet, and I love that it allows me to telecommute for my clients. But I have no patience when it doesn't work properly. I have a few hours of work to do before we head to the beach later this afternoon. I haven't felt "in the zone" so to speak in regard to my work this week. I'm not sure whether this is because I've been working on several projects simultaneously or whether my concentration has been off. A couple times I caught errors that I should not have I missed on my first pass, which of course then made me paranoid and supercautious going forward. I probably just need a break. Which I'm actually going to have later next week. Our friend T. arrives from Frankfurt on the 22nd, the first day of the village's summer feria. I'm taking off for the duration of the feria because there's no point in even trying to work. The 5-day festival is a round-the-clock affair. One morning last year I woke up and found the bumper car ride still full of drunken teens at 9:00 am. Big Jim received a bunch of promising job calls this week, but we've decided not to tell anyone when he has his next interview. I suppose it's part superstition/part a need to keep our business private to avoid the explanations should he not get the job. The three unsuccessful interviews he has had have been no fault of his own. The first one, the hiring supervisors had not communicated and the people brought in for interviews had a different set of skills required for the position. The second, Big Jim was the 40th person interviewed for the job; to no surprise, 4 months later the position is still being advertised. The third, Big Jim was overqualified for the job, having more experience than the supervisor. But still, we have received looks and comments from people that imply Big Jim somehow had failed or not tried hard enough, and frankly we don't need that crap. Despite the reports of an improving economy, in our immediate world, there are few signs of this. My father has just been given notice his office is shutting down the end of the September, the work being moved from suburban Philadelphia to Utah, Florida, and China, where office and labor costs are cheap. I am not ignorant that the global economy is inevitable, but at what price for American workers? The $5 toasters at Wal-Mart better soon be free because at this rate no one in the US will have a job. I also had a disturbing run-in with Spanish machismo this week. Before I moved here, the one concern of my friends was I how would handle this aspect of Spanish society. For the most part, I have had few problems. Spain is changing, and the current leader Zapatero has made the equal treatment of women a major platform issue. That said, it will not happen overnight, as I found out Thursday morning when walking the dogs. We came upon one of the old farmers, and I stopped to have our usual chat about the weather. He then took a step closer to me and asked if I would kiss him. I took a giant leap back and told him no way. He replied, okay okay, no problem. But now I'm a bit uneasy about going back to the goat track because I don't want a repeat encounter. Which is a pity because I love the morning walks there and it is the one place where the dogs can run freely off their leads. We also learned two new Spanish words this week: calentador de agua and enchufe. I took a shower Wednesday morning, and there was no hot water, which isn't a big deal in the summer because the sun first heats the water in roof-top deposito, so I had a warmish shower. When Big Jim got up, I told him there was no hot water, but his reply was dismissive in that way that men can be at times, "Well there should be hot water." So I said no more. About an hour later, Big Jim emerged from the bathroom, "There's no hot water." Typical. After investigating the situation, we found the plug to our beer keg-sized (not even a full keg, more like a half barrel) water heater singed, the socket charred. Big Jim, being the resourceful guy he is, found another unused plug, which he used to replace the burnt one, and rigged up an extension cord because the old socket looked a bit dubious. We shrugged it off as bad Spanish electrics, the same system that requires us to be sure to put on shoes before touching the dishwasher; we learned the hard way that doing so barefoot results in a nasty shock. So I'm looking forward even more than usual to our beach trip later today. It's the one place where Big Jim and I can completely relax away a few hours while we catch up on our reading, the ebb and swell of the sea massaging away the stresses of the past week. hasta manana, mylifeinspain

Saturday, July 10, 2004

construction construction construction

Last night Big Jim and I had a fabulous meal at Chez Spice. Big Jim had the chicken madras (which of course Big Jim didn't think was worthy of its "three chili pepper" heat rating because it didn't make him break out in a sweat---Big Jim's measure of a "proper" curry) and I had a mixed tandoori grill, which attracted the owners' scruff pup Sully to my side, in full beg mode. Felt like I was at home. After our stomachs were stretched to near maximum, we decided to also give our legs a stretch and have a little walk around Canillas. Even though Canillas is but three miles from our village, we haven't really explored it properly. We found a farmer sitting by one of the watering fountains as his horse had a drink and a tiny long-haired chihuahua chased a cat twice his size. Canillas also still has a public lavanderia or laundromat. I'm not talking about the kind with the rows of washing machines and dryers. No, this is an open-air building with rows of deep stone sinks with built-in washing boards. We have the exact sink in our washroom, but Big Jim just uses it to water the plants on our roof terrace. Many older women in Canillas still wash their clothes this way. Unfortunately, many of these old-world features of the village are being overshadowed by the blocks of flats being built around it. The same is true in our village. At the edge of town, where the goat track begins, there are plans to build a 68-unit apartment building. But we have no one to blame but ourselves. The presence of so many expats, and their money, has driven the real estate prices through the roof. The average townhouse is going for 120,000 to 180,000 euros (for Americans, to convert to dollars add 20%). Villas and fincas in the campo start at 250,000 euros. There is a large townhouse on the main square for sale in our village, with an asking price of 650,000 euros. These figures have tripled since Big Jim and I came looking for property less than four years ago. Obviously, many investors have benefitted greatly from this boom, but with average salaries of less than 20,000 euros a year, young singles and families have no way of affording such pricy housing. Hence, the need for blocks of flats. One of the cold hard facts Big Jim and I have had to face is that we may no longer be able to afford buying our dream place in the campo around the village. The once open farmland is now being carved into platforms for an endless sea of white luxury villas. We are now looking at areas a bit more upcountry, where old cortijos (farmhouses) and land (to stave off developers from our doorstep) are more in our target range. We are not averse to rehabing an old place slowly or adding rooms as we need them. If anything we have learned in the past few years is patience. One of our friends was housesitting for a woman a little while ago, and he invited us to see her house. She lived in a two-room original farmhouse in the campo. It was rustic and not exactly posh. The kitchen, except for the stove, was outside in the aire libre, as was her "bathroom". The toilet consisted of a bucket with a garbage bag inside for easy disposal, and her shower was a garden hose fitted with a small showerhead. Her dining area also was outside, with a vine-covered trellis providing shade from the summer sun. The house itself, despite its simplicity, was one of the most comfortable and inviting homes I have ever seen. Inside the entrance was her stove and shelves holding her assorted plates and cookbooks. To the left was the sitting area: a couple of overstuffed upholstered chairs, small television, and more stacks of books. On the walls hung antique farm tools and paintings she had collected from the local markets. Her bedroom was on the right. Most of the space was taken up by a high bed with a feather mattress and a mosquito net above. In one corner was an old washbasin, and in the other she had a small wardrobe for her clothes. It was an austere but totally pleasant room. As Big Jim and I headed back to the village that evening, I said to him, "That's the kind of place I'd like to have. Although perhaps with a bathroom." When I now look out at the cookie-cutter villas and the massive apartment blocks, an al fresco bathroom no longer seems like such an inconvenience. hasta pronto, mylifeinspain

Friday, July 09, 2004

another tgif/men in the kitchen

Time always seems to pass more quickly here, from hour to hour, day to day, month to month. Even though as a freelancer I often find myself working weekends, Friday is still my favorite day of the week. When I worked at the publishing company, I loved the sense of escape that would pass over the office every Friday at about 3:30 when people would finally relax in anticipation of the weekend, and at 5:00 I would shut down my computer with great satisfaction. Now, Monday through Friday I feel as if I am still working for other people, with all the deadlines and e-mails to field. If I choose to work on the weekends, I believe it is my choice and I can do so in relative peace. This is going to be a working weekend, although the Big Jim and I also plan to make time for a little fun. There will be the beach trip Sunday afternoon, and tonight we are going out for a curry at Chez Spice, an Indian restaurant in our neighboring village. Because we live on a shoestring budget, a meal out is a treat for us. We usually save these occasions for when we have guests or birthdays, so it's especially rare that Big Jim and I go out on our own. That's not to say we don't eat particularly well every day. Big Jim and I love food and love to cook. I always say half the reason I get up in the morning is to eat. We normally alternate the cooking responsibilities from day to day, but recently because I've been so busy with work, Big Jim has been doing weekdays and I cover the weekends. I am very fortunate because no matter who is cooking, I always know I am going to have a great meal. Big Jim's sensibilities lean more toward Asian (including Indian) cuisine and I do more Italian/Mediterranean (plus good ole American cooking---I make a mean mac & cheese), so we have great variety in our diet and rarely make the same dishes more than once, except for the favorites. We tend more to survey the larder and see what's on hand and go from there. If anything, our latest brush with poverty has made us both much more creative in the kitchen. When Big Jim has received one too many rejections from employment agencies, he always heads straight to the kitchen and pulls out the canner. We have shelves full of his "recession" jams, chutneys, pepper sauces, hot and sour soup, pickled vegetables. After almost two years, our neighbors still can't get over the sight of Big Jim in the kitchen. The village remains traditional in regards to male and female roles, and the Spanish men only concern themselves with the consumption of food. The shopping for, preparation, and cleaning up of meals are all jobs for women. The men are not even allowed in the house when the women are cooking. They sit on benches throughout the village, dressed in their "uniforms" of olive green cardigans and brown trousers, chatting, smoking, and passing the time until 2:00, when the main meal is served. After they have eaten and had a little siesta, at about 4:30, the men wander back to the benches for more chatting and smoking. It's almost 10:30 am, which means in about 15 minutes, there will be a car down on the main street, Calle San Antonio, honking its horn. That will be the fish man. He comes by every day, same time, and the women all rush down to pick out the sardines, sole, gambas for lunch. I love that the village has a fish man; this kind of door-to-door delivery of fresh food is practically nonexistent now in the US. As I said, there are times when I feel like I'm living in a time warp. The village life appears to be at a crossroad of different eras. I sit in my office with my laptop and the DSL Internet line, but outside the window it could be 1954. This evening, though, Big Jim and I are going to be 21st century: I'm treating him to dinner. Hasta pronto, mylifeinspain

Thursday, July 08, 2004

making new friends/garbanzo&tuna salad

I have a friend, GGB., who moved from Philadelphia to New Orleans last month. This was a difficult decision for him because he, like I, had built a nice life for himself in Philly. He had a decent job, great friends, family close by. But he was restless because he's an artist and he wasn't creating. Another friend of mine celebrated his first anniversary in LA, where he moved last year, also from Philadelphia (sensing a mass exodus?), to break into storyboarding---his dream job. I am really proud of both of them because I know the risks they are taking firsthand. And it's not easy. GGB. is experiencing his first bout of homesickness and missing his friends. Perfectly normal. I remember my first few months here, which were spent primarily exploring my new home...places, food, new friends. Many times I wished that my US friends and family were here so that I could share all the first-time experiences with them directly rather than trying to recreate them in an e-mail or relate them in a telephone call. It is also impossible to develop overnight the supportive friendships you've left behind. Time, history, shared crises, love made those friendships so special; therefore, a person in a new land finds an immediate void in his or her life. I have seen newly arrived expats panic when they realize this, and then immediately go out and surround themselves with people, any people, to keep the feeling of aloneness at bay. I have never been one to make friends quickly. Big Jim and I differ in this regard. He is an extraordinarily social person and loves being the center of attention. I shun away from large gatherings, prefer sitting back to listen and observe from the sidelines. I never reveal much of myself until I am comfortable with the people around me. Big Jim puts himself all out there, and if people don't approve, his attitude is "well stuff it." Because Big Jim and I spent the first five years of our relationship living in our own worlds, with our own friends, on opposite sides of the Atlantic, it was only when we moved together to Spain that I realized people here saw us differently---as a couple. And they assessed and judged us not as individuals but as a unit. As an independent woman used to making her way on her own, I found this very disconcerting. And then there was the age difference....Big Jim is 11 years older than I; he's 47 and I'm 36. No one before had ever made much of an issue about this. I suppose maybe some people believe the gap is larger because Big Jim has been gray for years and I look a tad younger than the birthdate on my passport. Here, however, we found ourselves scrutinized for our choice of partners. I will never forget, or forgive, the woman who, on introduction, said to me, "So this is your sugardaddy then?" as she nodded in the direction of Big Jim. Big Jim has been more generous and has forgiven Antonioformerpoliceman for mistakening him as my father. In some ways, I believe it is more difficult making friends in a village versus the big city. In a mass of millions of people, finding those with similar interests and backgrounds is only a matter of time. It's also easier to hide from those you no longer wish to see (although not always true in Philadelphia...I'll never forget the night when B.V., my boyfriend at the time, and I went to see Mike Watt play at a local bar and not one, not two, but three of my old boyfriends were there [and I assure you I did not date that many]---a trifecta of bad dating memories before me). In a village of 2500, one cannot be as choosy, and in some ways I think this is a good thing. One finds oneself sitting at a table having a drink with people he or she would never imagine talking to if the situation was different. In the two and a half years here, I have made a few very good friends, and for that I am grateful. But it does take time, and there are days when I still wish I could meet up with M., B., S., J.A.R., or J.K. and have a good bitch session. These are the people from back home who really know and understand and love me warts and all. When I'm homesick for my friends I tend to watch "Sex and the City" DVDs; when I miss my family, I watch the "Sopranos" or "Home for the Holidays" (I'm not really sure what that says about the [dys]functionality of my family). And eventually the feeling of loss eases. It's a gorgeous day in La Axarquia today. There was quite a bit of traffic on the goat track this morning, and Precious Boo and Mr. Beebs had good fun playing with some of their canine friends. I often marvel at the light here, and I can understand why many artists have settled here. Maroma, the mighty 6500-foot mountain that stands as the sturdy backdrop of our world, is alive with light today as the sun reflects off its rocky precipice. The sky is perfectly clear, and the air is fresh, pristine. Ahh... But back to my reality, I must get my head out of the cloud[less] sky and start on my editing work. Before I go, here's a recipe for one of my favorite summer salads. I'm not sure it's truly a Spanish dish; it may be more Italian. Let's just call it a Mediterranean recipe, although it does use two popular Spanish ingredients: garbanzos (or chickpeas) and tuna. Here's what you need: 1 can/jar (about 16 oz.) garbanzos, rinsed 1 can tuna a couple chopped spring onions 1 T olive oil 3 T red wine vinegar Salt and pepper First, a word on the tuna. Whoever gave Americans the idea that tuna packed in water was a good thing has done a great culinary disservice and should be punished severely. Please do yourself a favor and in the future only buy tuna packed in olive oil. The Italian brand Cento sells it in the US, and if you can't find it at the supermarket, get on the Internet and order some online. I am serious about this. It may cost you more, but this is a gastronomic investment. Back to the recipe, mix the listed ingredients and chill for about 30 minutes before eating. This salad is so delicious and simple....I could have it just about every day. This is a great dish to take to a picnic because there's no dairy to worry about going off in the heat and your carbophobe friends will be happy, too. Enjoy! hasta pronto, mylifeinspain

Wednesday, July 07, 2004

random musings from a former morning person/John Edwards

I'm up earlier than usual today. I lay in bed at 6:30, listening to the first morning rush (lasting 5 minutes) as the construction workers all head out to the job sites. I soon realized I was awake awake, with no chance of drifting back for another hour before the alarm blares at 7:30. Other than birdsong and the clicking of my keyboard, my little corner of the world is quiet. The neighbors mostly are still in bed. Antonio former policeman, as he's called to distinguish him from Antonio, Iluminada's husband, is up tending to his grapes. He's now a winemaker and a pretty good one at that. He spends most of his day in his bodega, which he has outfitted with a sofa, radio, small oven, and the requisite girly calendar. I've never been invited inside because that would be improper here, but Big Jim has been asked in to sample Antonio's craft. The rest of the neighbors will get up in another hour or so, and the women will make their first of several daily trips to the markets to pick up bread for breakfast. The smell of burnt toast will creep from the open windows just before 10. I wonder if most Spanish people prefer their toast overdone because it's a smell I remember from my morning walks to school when I was a student in Seville. I used to be a real morning person when I lived in Philadelphia. I would typically rise at 5:30 to take the Precious Boo out for a run. There were only a few people up in my neighborhood at that hour....a couple young guys stumbling to the gym, the Daily News man setting up his cart at 4th and Race (a good spot because he could sell newspapers to the commuters coming off the B. Franklin Bridge), the workalcoholics juggling their travel coffee mugs and cell phones on the way to their 7 am meetings, the occasional other dogwalker. Since I've been living in Spain, though, I find my internal clock following the patterns of the sun and moon. During the winter months, it's damn near impossible to get me out of bed before 9, which is when the first rays of light peak over the mountain. In the summer months, though, it makes perfect sense to rise earlier before the weighty heat becomes overwhelming, making even blinking an effort. Siesta was not created simply because the Spanish like a long lunch---it evolved from absolute practicality. Onto a different topic, I quickly wanted to say how pleased I am Kerry has chosen John Edwards as his running mate. Edwards has been my favorite all along, although I wish he wasn't pro-death penalty. I truly don't understand why the US remains in the Dark Ages in regard to this. That said, I believe he's a good complement to Kerry, and I like their chances to beat the "Shrub". The thought of another four years of the simian-featured "intellectually incurious" (quote is Howard Dean) Bush (I'll spare you my feelings about Cheney for now) is just scary. A caller to Air America Radio (www.airamericaradio.com) last week suggested we begin to recite the following mantra: "Kerry. Landslide. Kerry. Landslide." Yes, I like the sound of that. Hasta manana. mylifeinspain